Monday, January 30, 2017

My memory with Himalayan Club

It was in 1970, we were 7 members who went to Amarnath (J &K) following the normal route.
Brief on trek to Amarnath

We hired sleeping bags  and inner fly of artic tent ( condemn items) from Himalayan Club, the store was located at 63/E Mahanirban Road,, South Kolkata, we had a good experience of weting inside the tent at Panchatarni in the month of August.We shared one sleeping bag among two of us. The getting mountaineering equipments at Kolkata was not so easy at that time.

Next year in 1971 we had established The Institute of Exploration at 11/B Indian Mirror Street, the chamber of (Late) Dr Manindra Lal Biswas.. We started visiting National Library searching information on Indian Himalayas including Himalayan Journal.(HJ)

The Institute of Exploration received 5 volumes of HJ from Himalayan Club., it was a great gift for us.


Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Intial days with Indian Army

It is difficult to recall the events of the first day in the office of your service life. For me, it was a 10 months pre-commissioned training at Officers Training Academy, Chennai, then 5 months Young Officers (Artillery) Course training at Artillery School, Deolali, Maharastra. I gave the option for high altitude and field area posting. The posting was to an Artillery unit which was located at North Sikkim, accordingly, I was planning to travel to New Jalpaiguri. I wrote a  Demi Official letter to my unit, mentioning that I have been posted there. I got a reply from the Adjutant of the unit and I was told to reach Dharampur Railway station not to New Jalpaiguri, It is located between Kalka to Shimla railway line of Northern Railway.
I reached on the due date and contacted my unit over landline. I was told to wait at the railway station. The representatives from the unit reached with a garlanded made of the cones of the pine tree, a parachute in a pack condition, a rammer, this used for ramming in the barrel of an artillery gun and a megaphone, used by the Gun Position Officer at the Command post of an artillery battery. This was for passing verbal order to the gunners.
The location is a part of Shimla Hills, we could see towards the south the street lights of Chandigarh during clear sky of dark hours of the day. Towards the north, we could see the snowy peaks at a far distance beyond Shimla.  It was 31st October, the winter was coming. My first night was under the tent, An officer was dressed like a helping hand, we call them ‘sahayak’ for me, he was Capt (then, later Col ) Ravindra Kumar, a resident of Chandigarh. The Commanding Officer dressed like a driver, he was driving Jonga. A detailed plan was chalked out for misguiding me in every step and the newborn officer had to overcome those fun.
The senior subaltern had the privilege to educate newborn officer on unit matters including Officers Mess customs e.t.c.   The new officer is welcome to be a member of the Officers fraternity in a process which we have followed from British Army. The dinning in, of Officers Mess, is the program for the Officer and his family after their arrival at the unit location and dinning out before their departure from the same location. This event is also called winning in, it was the first day for testing wine in a ceremonial way. The procedure the officer will take a post like a gunner, the wine is served in a bowl may be cocktail and he has to gulp it in one go.  It is difficult to forget those customs even after 38 years of leaving this unit. On Christmas Day of 1974, I went to check the guard duty during  the midnight when snowing started. The next day morning we find the area was completely covered with white snow, it seems covered by white bedsheets. It melt within a few days of sun rays. We had visited the cinema at Ambala and Chandigarh whenever we had visited those locations. This location was come and quite specially during dark hours of the day. A public school for the boys was there. Their parent were mostly NRIs. Apart from Officers Mess’s social event, the other mode of entertainment was radio, I had a 3 bands transistor, it was my good friend  for about the next 10 years. We had a orchestra team who played nice western and Hindi songs and tunes, they are all soldiers.
The Indian Army was raised from British Indian Army in 1950, and 15th January is observed the Indian Army day. I had the opportunity to watch the first Army Day parade at the Garrison Ground of Delhi in 1970, I was then NCC Cadet and joined NCC Republic day camp thereat.
After my release from Indian Army, I had attended a programme which was held at Siliguri in 1982. I saw my coursemate of OTA was one of the Pilot of the event, I could not mate him there, I got a chance to speak to him  over phone after 35 years when he was at New Delhi after his retirement from the Indian Army.
I learned to undergo about one month Commando Course as early as possible after Pre Commissioned training, we were then in good health condition. This course is run by the Infantry School, Belgao, Karnatak.  I was told to undergo this training with a notice of 10 hours, I do remember to leave my living accommodation when the down training was crossing the tunnel and I reached the railway station to aqvil the said train bound to Kalka Railway station. I was the fittest person in 1975 in my life for which staying about 4 months on the Himalayas and keeping space with those foreigners was possible by me.
There was hardly any spare time to think for self and family though I was bachelor then. I had a keen interest for doing mountaineering, I got the chance to be an Indian Liaison Officer first with USA team to Mulkila Six, in Himachal Pradesh, it was about one and half month. Then with a team from Japan Self defence Forces (JSDF) to Sickle Moon in Kishtwar Region of J&K. Both the team members were 12 members, JSDF had 2 ladies in their team. They had no experience in Indian Himalayas, except Leader of USA team Dr Lute Jerstard who had climbed Everest with the USA team in 1963. He had vast experience on India.
The USA  expedition was successfully climbed Mulkila Six (20,600 fts), in Lahul & Spiti of HP. We called on Fakurudin Ali Ahmed, then the President of India at Rastrapati Bhawan, New Delhi. The USA team had a strong desired to climb a virgin modest peak, but in October 1974 a team from Indo Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) had climbed this peak.  
I had a problem with the Japanese language. We lost one Japanese climber Lieutenant Takachi and Indian Havilder Ang Chotter of Indo Tibetian Border Police (ITBP) during the Japanese expedition. He was from Darjeeling. and  was the only member who was a member of Indo Japanese mountaineering expedition team  of 1973 to Sickle Moon in Kishtwar region of J&K.
Before joining Army I had done the Basic Mountaineering course from Western Himalayas Mountaineering Institute, Manali, Himachal Pradesh & Advance Mountaineering Course from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling.


 I was also organised and member of mountaineering expedition to Central ( 20 620 ft.) & Lion (20100 ft.) peaks of Lahul & Spiti of Himachal Pradesh. This was the first time NCC flag was hoisted on a top of a mountain peak.
The Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) is the apex body of our country IMF , they appoint Indian Liaison Officer with foreign mountaineering expedition.


 I was called by the Army HQ, Military Service Co-ord. Branch for this assignment. My unit was not happy that I was called by name for this assignment, I left for New Delhi from practice camp after completing my role in this training. I was aware of mountaineering activities in Indian Army; The Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) was at Sena Bhawan under the Directorate of Military Training.
I had the experience to form an association at Kolkata in 1971 when I was a college student and organised adventure activities such as training and expedition. The name of this organisation is The Institute of Exploration


Climbers ( extreme left & right) Asit Roy & Keshab Mukherjee. other members Maj S K De (R) & Swapan Pal ( L to R)  of Central (20620 fts) & Lion (20100 fts) of 1972 expedition of The Institute of Exploration