I joined the Indian Army as a Short Service Commissioned (Non
Technical ) officer. I had the experience of NCC training in Junior &
Senior Division, Army Wing. I did my Basic & Advance Mountaineering Courses
through NCC. I have the experience of organising mountaineering club, training
and expedition as an NCC Cadet. The expedition we had organised from this club
to climb Central (20620 fts.) & Lion (20100 fts.) in Himachal Pradesh (HP), district
Lahul & Spiti at Barasigri glacier.
We were the first Indian who climbed these peaks. NCC flag was the first time was
hoisted on any peak, it was in June 1972. NCC was one of the sponsors of this
expedition.
I joined the Indian Army with the hope that I can do
mountaineering activities during my Army career. I was the Indian Liaison
Officer with the USA team to Mulkila Six in HP & Japanese team to Sickle
Moon in J&K. It took about four months for both expeditions. By
then I had only one-year seniority in
Army. I was attached to Army HQ, MS (Coord) Br. We lost one Japanese climber Lt Takachi, Deputy Leader of Japan
Self Defence Force and one Sherpa from ITBP, Hav Ang Chotar from Darjeeling.
My first unit was 64 Fd Regt, it was then in peace location.
I was keen to have the experience of life in Field condition, if possible in
high altitude. On my request, I was posted to 90 Fd Regt. I served about 2
years. I got the chance to join Regt. of Arty Pre Expedition to Kedarnath Peak
in 1979. This peak is located in Gangotri glacier, in Uttrakhand. We were advised to report High Altitude Warfare
School. (HAWS).
This School has a great role to promote mountaineering
in India specially the Indian Everest Expeditions of 1960, under the leadership of Brig Gyan Singh, a Gunner Officer & 1962 under the leadership of Col John Dias. I
had good contact with the Comdt of HAWS Col D N Tankha, a Sikh Officer, he
was the leader of HAWS expedition to Sickle Moon of 1975. I mate him and the
team members at Kishtwar, in J&K.
We assembled HAWS, most of us were not having snow clothing,
it was arranged there. Comdt was Col Narendra Kumar,
he was ex-The principal of HMI. I had helped Leader of the expedition for planning the identification of the resources, we approached Director Arty for procurement, mainly
equipment, ration, communication, medical e.t.c.
We were two Officers from 90 Fd Regt another officer was Lt
(1979) Mathew Varghese. He was very fit and tough for such a venture.
We two Oiiicers from the
Pre Expedition team . left HAWS and moved to Arty Directorate for final
preparation including press conference for this expedition under the
arrangement of Directorate of Public Relations, MOD. Finally, the team left New
Delhi for the expedition. By then the list for PRC of our course has been out.
I was not selected. I took the permission
to return unit loc for final release from the Indian Army.
Finally, I left unit loc by train with lots of memories and
satisfaction to sending another mountaineering expedition to Indian Himalayas
from Regt of Arty. I still remember the send-off at unit NRS where the Officers,
JCOs and Ors who were there with lots of affection and worries about my settlement
in civil life. The packed food was so
heavy it was difficult to do the justice to food by me. I joined the first civil appointment after 26 days
of leaving my unit loc. and when I was on leave pending release period. After joining the biggest Bank of India, it was 3 years
after my release when I got married the unit was located next station. I have
the privilege to receive unit Offices. & family members during the reception
ceremony.
Source of Photo
No 2 Col Narendra Kumar, Ex Principal of HMI, Darjeeling
& Ex Codt of HAWS