Adventure in Indian Himalayas

Indian are fortunate to have Himalayas from east to west at the northern part of the country. The heighest peak is Kanchenjunga from (Indian side). Every year Indian and foreign mountaineering teams go for climbing during pre and post monsoon periods. The some area of J&K expeditions  are also conducted during monsoon period. Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)   is the apex body on climbing in India, it is located at New Delhi,

The following states are Himalayas states they are Jammu & Kashmir (J&K), Himachal Pradesh (HP), Uttrakhand , & North East States.

In India first  mountaineering Institute is High Altitude Warfare School (HAWS), it is for Indian Armed Forces. The first civilian mountaineering Institute is Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling, West Bengal, it was established in 1954. Atal Vihari Mountaineering Institute at Manali, HP, Nehru Mountaineering Institute (NIM), Uttarkashi, Uttrakhand & Jawhar Mountaineering Institute (JMI) at Phalgam, J&K. This Institute conducted Adventure, Basic, Advance Mountaineering  & Method of Instruction Courses for boys & girls.

Discussion on accident in Nepal Himalayas by All India radio, Kolkata on 3rd June 2014

News service of Akashbani Kokata

 http://allindiaradio.gov.in/station/KOLKATA/Pages/default.aspx   will broadcast their weekly programme call ‘Tarang’ a discussion on missing of mountaineer and sherpas at Yalung Glacier of Nepal Himalayas on 20^th Nay 2014. It is schedule to broadcast on 3^rd June 2014 at 8 pm (IST).

In West Bengal the under the Department of Youth Affairs of  Government of West Bengal, West Bengal Mountaineering and Adventure Sports Foundation (WBM&AF)   http://www.wbyouthservices.in/wb_mountaineering_adventurous_sports.html

 is supporting body for development of mountaineering activities in the state of West Bengal.

Certain questions are in the mind of the general public which they  are looking for answers few of these :

Is Ms Chanda Gayen applied for fund from WBM&AF for her expeditions to Mt. Kanchenjunga Main (8586 m.)  & Kanchenjunga West peaks ?  

Is WBM&AF has examined her plan to climb Kanchenjunga & Kanchenjunga West peaks ? What was the conclusion of the sanctioning authority of the WBM&AF in respect of Ns Gayen plan to climb both peaks in this venture ?

On 18^th May 2014 there were 4 climbers who have climbed Kanchenjunga from Nepal Himalayas whether 3 climbers also sanctioned fund by the WBM&AF ?

As per the media report 3 climbing members left base camp of Kanchenjunga  for their  return journey after hearing the accident occurred  at Yalung glacicer of Kanchenjunga West peak, Why no attempts was made by these climbers for search and rescue operation to the victim climber & sherpas ?

What is the policy of WBM&AF for funding climbers for mountaineering expeditions, is there any policy in this respect, if so is it circulated to all ?


An audio visual presentation on Everest and Kanchenjunga was organised by the State Central Library (SCL), Government of West Bengal, Kolkata on 1st October 2015. Following speakers were there

Mr Ujjal Roy, Adviser of West Bengal Mountaineering and Mountain Sports Foundation of Kolkata narrated their expedition of 2013 to Everest from Nepal. The expedition was organised by Snout an NGO. Mr Roy was the leader of this expedition, He is working with Kolkata Police. In his presentation he projected the visual of Chanda Gayen of her summit to Everst in 2013.It was not clear whether Chanda was a part of their team of 2013 ?

Mr Basanta Singha Roy presented their slides on Kanchenjunga Expedition of 2013. He explained the  Kanchenjunga  West Peak where the accident took place in 2014.

This was the first such programme organised by the SCL. 

Memory of accident in Indian Himalayas

40 years back I had joined the Indian Army, before joining the Indian Army I had undergone Basic & Advance mountaineering courses. I had joined and one of the organiser to organise National Cadet Corps' first successful mountaineering expedition to Central (20620fts.) & Lion (20100 ft.) Peaks in Barasigri glacier of Lahul & Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh. When I was one year of my service  I was detailed for Indian Liaison Officer initially for USA expedition to Mulkila 6 (20600 ft.) of Lahul & Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh and then with a team from Japan Self Defence Force (JSDF), they attempted to climb Sickle Moon in Kishtwar Region of J&K. It was in July & August 1975.

They were 12 members including 2 ladies. The team reached India in 4 groups, There were 3 Sherpas from Darjeeling, West Bengal. One of them was working with the Indo Tibetian Border Police. In 1973 there was a joint expedition with the Indian Army and JSDF, Havildar Ang Choter was the only who was with a team of 1973.  I had to communicate with the members through an interpreter. We had employed 2 mail runners and 1 cook. The Japanese members were liking Indian dishes for which we were short of ration. We were dependent on Japanese food items.

After Base camp, Advance Base camp, Camp I, II the summit camp was at an altitude if about 18500 ft. An attempt was made to the summits. They returned the summit camp at about 1 am and went to sleep under the tent. They were five members in this tent, Hav Ang Choter and Lieutenant Takachi were in the center rolling stone hit them while they were sleeping. Hav Ang Choter got a head injury, he was spot dead.Lt Takachi was hit at his chest, he survived the next 2 hrs. and 30 mins. The rescue team went to evacuate them by mountaineers but it was late. The bodies were brought down by 15 climbers, sherpas & one shepherd, it took about 48 hours from 18500 fts to 12500 fts.

Graduation Ceremony of the Institute of Exploration of 44th Rock Climbing Course

Graduation ceremony of The Institute Exploration (IOE) was held at Ahutosh Memorial Hall, Asutosh College, Kolkata on 26th April 2014, the Chief Guest was Major General Shyam Srivastav, Deputy Director General of NCC ( at the left), West Bengal & Sikkim Directorate,

Special Guest Mr Ujjal Roy( at the right), Adviser, West Bengal Mountaineering & Adventure Foundation, Department of Youth Affairs, Government of West Bengal,

Mr Durga Das,(Center) President of IOE,

Certificates were awarded to the successful trainees who have undergone this course by the Chief Guest,  Major General Shyam Srivastav, Deputy Director General of NCC ( at the left), West Bengal & Sikkim Directorate,

Address by the Chief Guest Major General Shyam Srivastav, Deputy Director General of NCC ( at the left), West Bengal & Sikkim Directorate, he appreciate the activities performed by the IOE during the past.

Some members of the audiences were Prof Subrata Ghosh, Register of Rabindra Bharati University (first row at the left), Ms Deepali Sinha, (front row, right side) veteran mountaineer, first leader of Pathikrit expedition to Ronti sadel, Uttrakhand 

The organisers (except no 1 from the left ) of the 1st Rock climbing course held at Sushunia Hill, Bankura. West Bengal, in December 1971

Veterans of the IOE who were present in this programme Mr Asit Roy, (Left), Vice President of IOE, Mr Keshab Chandra Mukherjee, (right) both are the  the climbers  of Lion (20100 fts) & Central (20620 fts), the first time NCC flag on the top of a mountain, in Bara Sigri Glacier, Himachal Pradesh in 1972  

(Other climbers were Mr Nitai Roy & High Altitude Porters on both the peaks and Late Asit Moitra on Central Peak.: Not in the picture)

Others were the members of the said expedition Major Sushanta Kumar De (Retd, second from lef)t, and Mr Swapan Kanti Pal, (3rd from the left)

Mr Amulya Sen,(center)  a renowned veteran mountaineer of India 

Only Guest Instructor of 1st Rock climbing course of IOE held at Sushunia Hill, Bankura. West Bengal, in December 1971

He received several awards and receptions in India, the highest award of mountaineering in India is National Adventure award for the year 1998, by the Government of India. 

Photographs by Mrs Swarnali De, Kolkata.

5th Rock Climbing Course of Himalayan Association of Kolkata, West Bengal

It was 46 years back I was a college student of Bangabasi College, Kolkata. A cadet of  National Cadet Corp (NCC)  of senior division, army wing. My Battalion was 18^th Bengal Battalion NCC. I was looking forward to undergo Rock climbing course, a senior trekker of central Kolkata of Council of Himalyan Exploration of Central Kolkata, Creek Row. He was active member of a library, he advised me that he will arrange for my rock climbing training when their organisation will arrange the same.  I arranged a reception at NCC Club House for their team member who went to climb an unnamed peak in Uttrakhand. Till to day they have not organised any rock climbing course. I saw a news published in daily paper of Kolkata and came to know that Himalayan Association (HA) of 89 Mahatma Gandhi Road, (College Square), Kolkata organising their 5^th Rock Climbing Course at Sushunia Hill, Bankura.

I approached my College Vice Principal,  Late Sudeb Ghosh, a spirited sports man. He sanctioned an amount for joining my course.

My Rope Instructor was Mr Shymal  Chakraborty, Sherpa Da Namgyal of Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI)  was one of our Instructor. Mr. Chanchal Kumar Mitra, was then Secretary of the HA. Mr Manik Banerjee and Ms Deepali Sinha were among the Instructors.

Our Graduation ceremony was held at Kolkata Information Center, Kolkata, the H’ble Governor of West Bengal Mr Dharma Vira. 

Memory on reception at SBI Kulu, Himachal Pradesh, Branch in 1972 for the mountaineers of Kolkata, Bengal Circle

I was a then-college student, we formed a mountaineering organisation at Kolkata. Among us was  SBI staff who was serious mountaineer of our Country, He was Sanatan Bhattacharya, he was posted at Netaji Subash Road Branch. We organised a mountaineering expedition to Central (20620 ft) & Lion (20100 ft) peaks in Lahul & Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh. These peaks were climbed by British climbers in 1962, they published a book titled “Four miles high’ by Joseph Scar. We took this publication from British Council Library from Kolkata on loan. Sanatan Bhattacharya was the leader of this expedition. We were 12 members among us, Mr. Nitai Roy, a Supervising staff of Bengal Circle was an adviser for this expedition. He along with other members and high altitude porters of the expedition climbed both the peaks. National Cadet Corps (NCC), Ministry of Defence was main sponsor of this expedition. This was the first time both the peaks were accented by the Indians.

We had faced quite a few mountain hazards during our expeditions. One was while crossing a nullah,  named ‘Karacha’ near Batal. There was an accident in 1970 on this nullah where 2 lady mountaineers were dead while they were crossing the same. They were from Kolkata.

We had a requirement of cash for the payment of High altitude porters at Manali, we had to take money from the Bank. The SBI was having a pay office at Manali. There was a limitation to draw money from there, we moved to Kulu, the district Headquarter and of course a SBI Branch. We left Manali it was pouring rain heavily, we had no umbrella only wind chitter was not effective. We called on Branch Manager’s residence for Banking service, he offered tea & breakfast for three of us and arranged the cash of our requirement. We went to Kulu by bus but for return to Manali we had to climb a mountain to follow the track, it was not that difficult for us but the problem for seniors, ladies, and children. A warm reception was accorded to us by the staff members of our Kulu Branch which we still carry this memory.

Next day we arranged a truck to cross the river Beas and follow the road other side of the river and reached Chandigarh for catch train from there.

Sanatan Bhattacharya, expired at Kolkata, Mr. Nitai Roy, a pensioner of SBI settled at West Bengal.

West Bengal pioneer in mountaineering & trekking in India

West Bengal pioneer in mountaineering & trekking in India

•1st mountaineering institute for imparting training to civilians also functioning since 1954.
•1st civil mountaineering expedition to Nandaghunti was in 1960 from this state.
•1st solo trans-Himalayas trekking was done by a mountaineer of this state.
•Maximum mountaineering teams are from this state in India.
•The leader and Deputy Leader of the 1st NCC mountaineering team was from this state.
•1st time the NCC flag was on a mountain top, (Lion 20100 ft, in Barasigri glacier, Himachal Pradesh) the expedition was organised from this state.
•Maximum numbers of mountaineering & trekking clubs are from this state.
In 2013 there were 64 Indian expeditions to Indian Himalayas out of which there were 39 expeditions to Indian Himalayas from the State of West Bengal. The results are
Unsuccessful Successful Abandon Not known
20 nos 17 nos 1 1
•Maximum numbers of mountaineering & trekking journals and souvenirs are published from this state.

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•Mountaineering film festival held from this state.
•Mountain photography, Salon was organised from this state.
•State-level mountaineers & trekkers meet since 1980





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